Summer Fashion and Accessories Preview- Hindman auction a treasure trove

Moschino Couture, "Survival" jacket, 1991
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Hindman’s Summer Fashion and Accessories auction features a significant collection of American lyric soprano/Creative Consultant Lyric Opera of Chicago diva Renée Fleming’s performance gowns. The auction, which also boasts 300 gorgeous iconic Hermés scarves, sculpted Karl Lagerfeld models, whimsical Moschino creations and original Halston designs will be held live online at www.hindmanauction

Dates for the sale are as follows:

  • July 15, 10 a.m.: Summer Fashion and Accessories: Renée Fleming, Karl Lagerfeld, Halston and more
  • July 16, 10 a.m.: Summer Fashion and Accessories: Hermés Scarves, Handbags and Accessories

The catalog, available online since July 1, showcases 800 lots dating from the 18th Century to today.

In-person preview from July 10 to 13 at Hindman Chicago, located at 1338 West Lake Street. 

Christian Dior Haute Couture Dress and Shawl, 2008, Collection Renée Fleming

This author was given the lucky opportunity to get a long look at a number of the stellar quality items in the collection, each of which seemed as though it had just come from the hands of master craftspersons in their respective ateliers. A  two-tone cross bodice heavy silk evening gown hid an internal corset that could only have been designed by the doyenne of bustiers, Vivienne Westwood. A  body-hugging dreamy red-white-and blue maxidress and coat had been bespoke from master tailor James Galanos. Halston’s impossibly soft and sexy knit “Cloud” dress inspired every covetous impulse. A luscious Hanae Mori dress in ice-cream colors featured beading, darts, finishes and ruffled hem all sewn in patterns of soft waves. And the Hermés scarves! Sensuous spun silk imprinted with horses, flags, dogs, and other emblems of the good life…

Galanos dress and coat, 1970’s

I interviewed Timothy Long, Hindman’s Director and Senior Specialist of Luxury Accessories and Couture, about the firm’s dedication to vintage fashion, how he goes about obtaining the fabulous pieces for an auction opportunity such as this, and significant highlights of the sale.  

“I appreciate equally the items that can be classified as antiques as well as the pieces that are in trend”, he stated. “Although the auction items are here in Chicago, we will have buyers here and online representing many different countries. This collection we are offering is filled with very special one-of-a-kind works! For example, there is a gentleman’s wallet dating from the 1770’s; 18thcentury items are very rare indeed,” he noted. “With my background as a museum curator, I enjoy the research and trying to uncover the provenance underlying the remit. There are quite a lot of Chanel pieces from the 1970’s through the 1980’s that have never been worn, and that is an actual treasure trove for people who wear art, for collectors, and for resellers”, he noted.

“From Lagerfeld, Moschino and Halston’s deeply influential designs to breathtaking pieces worn onstage by opera singer Renée Fleming, this is not one to miss,” he enthused. “The Summer Fashion and Accessories auction, offering a wide variety of choices and price points has something for bidders across the board.”

Tim Long, Director, Senior Specialist, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers

Highlights of the auction include:

Renée Fleming’s Performance Gowns

Featuring a variety of gowns worn by iconic American opera singer Renée Fleming from 2005 to 2017, this collection includes commissions from some of the world’s top designers and couturiers, including John Galliano for Christian Dior, Vivienne Westwood and Gianfranco Ferré. The pieces came to Hindman from the Collection of Renée Fleming to benefit the Renée Fleming foundation.

– Hermés 

The Summer Fashion and Accessories Auction also includes 300 Hermés scarves, which were preserved by a small number of collectors through the decades and features illustrations from Kermit Oliver, Phillippe Ledoux, Zoé Pauwels, Leila Menchari and dozens more. In addition to the scarves, the collection includes many Hermés handbags, including the popular Kelly and Birkin, as well as jewelry and clothing. 

– Karl Lagerfeld

One of the most influential modern fashion designers, Karl Lagerfeld’s prolific career included time with numerous labels including Fendi, Chanel and his own Karl Lagerfeld label. Featuring designs that span his illustrious career, this sale includes a variety of Chanel items, from clothing to bags and unworn shoes, three garments designed under the Karl Lagerfeld label and numerous Fendi bags.

Moschino “Barbie” dress, @2000’s

– Moschino

Known for bold, whimsical designs that often offer satirical commentary on modern culture, Moschino was founded by Franco Moschino in Milan in 1983. Spanning all three of the luxury fashion house’s creative directors, this collection includes a variety of iconic designs including the Life Jacket, Survival Jacket and Barbie Dress.

– Halston

Roy Frowick Halston was an American fashion designer from Iowa whose draped designs became symbolic of the 1970s disco era. The Summer Fashion and Accessories auction includes three iconic Halston designs, including his famous ‘Cloud’ dress in gray and white sequins. 

Dennis Basso dress and shawl, 2016


Hindman is one of the nation’s leading fine art auction houses offering holistic solutions that connect cities nationwide to the global art market by providing expertise across all categories, sales channels and price points. 

Hindman conducts over 100 auctions annually and appraises thousands of objects throughout the year in addition to handling major single-owner collections. The firm is currently accepting consignments for summer, fall and winter sales. To contact Hindman’s Chicago headquarters, visit or call 312.280.1212.

All photos courtesy of Hindman


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